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What I’m really getting at is that the balance seems to be tipping in the favor of winemakers who are willing to present wines that are expressive of the place; unmasked by excessive oak, exaggerated extraction, or exceedingly high alcohol. Five years ago there were a handful of producers bold enough to let Washington fruit express itself in the bottle. Today there are at least a handful of handfuls. A good deal of this sensibility comes, no doubt, from the talent that the state has attracted from elsewhere – Greg Harrington, MS, of Gramercy Cellars, Brennon Leighton of Efeste, and Christoph Baron of Cayuse come to mind – as well as from lessons learned from locals such as Bob Betz, MW, of Betz Family Winery, Ben Smith of Cadence and Chris Camarda of Andrew Will. For those mentioned above, making varietally correct wines has always been at the core of their philosophies. There are scores more who have been driven in similar directions either by personal intent or market forces.
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A good deal of the credit for this sea change should be attributed to grape growers who have had the foresight and presence of mind to plant grapes that make sense for a given vineyard plot. While chardonnay and cabernet are still the state’s cash cow grapes, other varieties that have not yet entered the standard American household lexicon, such as tempranillo, viognier, grenache and barbera, are gaining ground. While these varieties are not necessarily the future of Washington wine, the fact that people have been bold enough to plant them where other varieties would have guaranteed more money is encouraging.
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All of this is extremely exciting for someone like me, who has grown tired of seeing the same old game played out under fancy new labels and pounds (literally!) of deeply-punted green glass. It shouldn’t be about the next luxury cuvee, it should be about producing good, honest, well-made wine that restaurants can afford to pour by the glass and consumers can drink with dinner each night.

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course 1

crudo of hamachi, scallop, and Hawaiian blue prawn

pairing: sparkling preserved lemonade

technique: small dice preserved lemon, discard the seeds. muddle with simple syrup and ice. top with soda water

theory: the lemon works very well with the seafood, and the preserve adds some saltiness that plays with the natural briny quality of the crudo. the bubbles refresh the palate from some really rich fish/shellfish.

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course 2

roasted rabbit saddle stuffed with marcona almonds, dates, goat cheese and fresh herbs

pairing: rosemary and fig vinegar tea

technique: infuse simple syrup with rosemary and fresh ginger. brew some fresh black tea with a fairly neutral flavor. in a mixing glass add 1 1/2oz tea, 1/4 oz fig vinegar, 3/4 oz verjus rouge, and 1/4 oz rosemary syrup. add ice, shake and strain.

theory: the texture of this drink rocks, it develops this creamy head from the shaking which gives it body. the herbaciouness of the rosemary pairs with the herbs, dates and cheese in the saddle. the verjus and fig vinegar pair well with the dates and almonds while at the same time provide acidity to cut through the richness of the cheese and dates themselves.

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course 3

pan roasted spiced (grains of paradise, cardamom, anise) muscovy duck breast with butter bean salad

pairing: curried coconut, carrot and apple milk

technique: gently heat 1 can of coconut milk with 1 tbsp curry to infuse - don’t let it climb past a simmer. juice 2 apples, 3 carrots and mix. in a mixing glass add 1 1/2 oz coconut milk, 1 oz juice mixture and 1/2 oz simple syrup. mix with ice and strain, top with an orange twist

theory: the curry matches the spice of the duck with the coconut milk adding some needed fat to mellow out the spice and spread it across the palate. the sweetness of the carrot and apple contrasts the spice and add some earthy components for the salad.

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course 4

lobster ravioli with osetra caviar and shellfish nage

pairing: cucumber celery refresher

technique: juice 1 head celery and 3 cucumbers and strain. in a mixing glass add 1 3/4 oz cucumber mixture, 1/2 oz verjus blanc, 1/4 oz lemon juice, and 1/4 oz simple syrup. shake, strain and garnish with a lemon twist.

theory: lobster is extremely decadent and this refresher is a nice contrast to that richness. celery also works well with briny things like the caviar and the lobster itself and the lemon gives some acidity to cleanse the palate. the juice would also be really delicious mixed with some gin for an alcoholic version.

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course 5

chocolate souffle

pairing: walnut milkshake

technique: toast 1 cup walnuts and let cool. add to blender 2 cups cold whole milk, walnuts, 1 tsp ground cinnamon, 1 tsp cocoa powder, and 1/3 cup simple syrup. blend until smooth and chill before serving

theory: this is basically a sauce for the souffle. the nuts add another layer of flavor, the spice pairs with the chocolate and the cold shake contrasts with the hot souffle.

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the response from the guests that indulged in the pairings was phenomenal, I think there is a fair amount of potential for this. let me know what you think!

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Medjool dates - use a sharp pairing knife to make a short cut along the pit to remove it and provide a pocket for your stuffing.

Dry cured Spanish chorizo - small dice

pine nuts - toasted and roughly chopped

fresh thyme - stems removed and finely chopped

sherry vinegar

olive oil

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in a bowl combine the chorizo, pine nuts, thyme and mix

add sherry vinegar and olive oil to taste - the mixture should be lightly dressed

with a small spoon stuff your dates and line them on a sheet pan

bake at 350 until hot

top with olive oil and sea salt - serve

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a quick note about sourcing product - everything for these recently posted recipes can be sourced from the following three phenomenal Seattle shops

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The Spanish Table - great for olive oil, piquillos, pimenton, etc.

Pike Place Fish Market - ridiculously fresh seafood and excellent salt cod if you don’t want to make your own

Frank’s Produce - The best fresh produce in the market, hand’s down.

Support these local businesses!

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Paella!

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12 oz shrimp – shell and heads on
18 oz clams, mussels, or whatever is fresh
6 oz squid – cleaned
6 oz loose chorizo
finely chopped onion
chopped garlic
tomato sauce
fresh peas
roasted red bell pepper
serranos – sliced thin
large pinch saffron
parsley
lemon
kosher salt
2 ½ cups rice
8 cups chicken stock

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peel and devain shrimp – reserve shells
heat chicken stock in pot and add the shells – simmer for 15 minutes – turn off heat and add saffron – let sit for 15 minutes – strain and reserve
in a large saute pan cook chorizo in olive oil until cooked through – remove chorizo and leave oil behind
add onion and garlic to pan and cook until transparent
add rice and toast for a couple minutes
add stock in 1 cup increments and stir until all liquid is absorbed for the first 4 cups of stock
add the remaining stock, then the seafood, tomato sauce and serranos – stir and cover
cook until shellfish open and shrimp and squid are opaque – careful not to overcook – remove seafood as it is done!
you can add it back when the cooking process is complete.
season with fresh lemon juice, salt and pepper and serve!

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This dish is really easy to prepare, and pairs well with the Buil & Gine Rueda that is discussed in a post below. Enjoy!

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Apple, Garroxta & Walnut Crostini

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tart apples - julienne

preserved lemon vinaigrette

parsley - whole leaves
walnuts – toasted and roughly chopped
any medium hard cheese from Spain
baguette

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slice and grill/toast the baguette

in a large bowl toss apples, parsley, walnuts and vinaigrette

top baguette with sliced cheese and then with apple salad

finish with olive oil and sea salt

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Bacalao-Stuffed Piquillo Peppers

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Serves 6

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12 piquillo peppers – the Spanish table in Seattle’s Pike Place market has these
¾ # fresh atlantic cod
kosher salt
bay leaf
peppercorns
cayenne
thyme
garlic – whole cloves crushed w/ skin on
3 cups whole milk
½ # potatoes
olive oil
pimenton

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salt the cod generously and place in a perforated pan covered in the fridge for 2 days
combine milk, bay, cayenne, thyme, garlic and peppercorns – bring to a low simmer
rinse cod and poach in milk mixture until cooked through
remove cod – let cool – remove any bones and/or skin
cook potatoes in milk mixture until tender and remove
strain milk mixture
add potaotes and cod to a mixer or large bowl
using a paddle or masher mix the potatoes and cod, adding the milk and olive oil as need to reach a smooth
consistancy
check seasoning and cool
stuff peppers with cod mixture and roast until hot and slightly crispy on the edges
serve with pimenton and finishing olive oil

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2007 Buil & Gine Nosis Rueda

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varieties: 100% Verdejo

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region: Rueda, Spain. Rueda lies along the Duero river to the northwest of Madrid. This area also
produces some fantastic Sauvignon Blanc.

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vinification: 100% stainless steel

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notes: coming from the “Fuente la Miel” vineyard, 35 year old vines create a wine with intense melon,
grapefruit pith, lemon oil, and wet rock. Ripe and fresh with lively acidity.
pairing: shellfish and fin fish or just a porch and comfy chair on a summer afternoon.

1998 R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Gran Reserva Rose

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varieties: 30% Tempranillo, 60% Garnacho and 10% Viura

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region: Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain. Rioja  There are three main sub-regions of Rioja  — Rioja Baja, Rioja Alavesa, and the Alta.  The Alta is considered by most to be the highest quality area and this house has been around since 1877.  They make their own barrels and are very traditional in style.  All of the fruit for this wine is grown in the Vina Tondonia vineyard that is owned completely by R. Lopez de Heredia.

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aging:  4 years in house coopered barrels

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pairing: We all think of rose for summer drinking and while that is a great time for this wine, it is really food driven that can be drunk all year with charcuterie, seafood and spicy fare.  It bridges the gap between red and white and opens up a whole other world for pairing options.

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2000 La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza Reserva Especial, Rioja, Spain

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tasting note
The nose is dominated by red and black fruits: sour cherry, black cherry and red currant. Very complex nose of leather, iron, vanilla, cinnamon, clove, sweet tobacco and dried red flowers. This wine has nice structure, with bright acidity and velvety tannins supporting the fruit. It is full bodied and finishes with great length.
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harvest
2000 was a very good vintage for Rioja. Warm temperatures and dry weather allowed for great ripening and discouraged vine diseases and pests. September was particularly dry, which ensured that the grapes would be able to develop complexity on the vine. The harvest began during the first week of October, and the grapes came into the winery with excellent sugar levels, great color development, and ripe tannins.
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varieties
80% Tempranillo from the 30-year old Viña Ardanza estate in Rioja Alta
20% Garnacha from Ausejo and Tudelilla, in Rioja Baja.
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aging
Alcoholic fermentation: 14 days in stainless steel at a maximum temperature of 28 C.
Malolactic fermentation: 21 days
Racking : wine was transferred to American oak casks in March, 2001.
Oak regime: 36 months in 4 year old American oak casks, which were an average of 4 years old.
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Alcohol: 13.2 % abv
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HILDAGO MANZANILLA LA GITANA, SANLUCAR DE BARRAMEDA, ANDALUCIA, SPAIN

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This is a very special style of sherry called manzanilla, which can only be produced in the town of Sanlucar de Barrameda in southwestern Spain. The unique yeast that grows on the wine during production, called flor, is especially strong here, and lends the wines a delicacy that is not found elsewhere. The Palomino grape used for most fine sherry production is grown on a specific water-absorbent chalk called albariza.

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Sherry can be divided into two main styles: fino and oloroso. The distinction between the two styles has everything to do with the presence (or absence) of flor; Finos grow flor, olorosos don’t. Flor forms a thick, cream-cheese like layer on top of the wine in the barrel, and this protects finos from oxygen. Because olorosos do not have this protective layer and are exposed to oxygen, they become far more nutty in flavor, richer in texture and darker in color. Olorosos are given an extra whallop of alcohol, which kills off the flor ( flor typically does not survive in solutions above 16% alcohol) and adds viscosity and richness.

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Manzanilla is, technically speaking, a fino, though it is more delicate, fresher, and more vibrant than most finos. The fact that flor is stonger in Sanlucar de Barrameda than in other nearby towns, such as El Puerto de Santa Maria and Jerez de la Frontera, has to do with the moderating effects of the Atlantic Ocean, which Sanlucar de Barrameda is slightly more prone to.

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There are other styles of sherry that fall somewhere in between the freshness of fino and the rich caramel nuttiness of oloroso, such as amontillado (a fino that has been aged until the flor dies off, giving it a slightly more nutty flavor and an amber hue) and palo cortado (sherry that starts out as fino, but by a fluke of nature, loses it’s flor and turns into an oloroso). Palo cortado is the rarest style, as it’s creation is completely dependant on the vagary of nature, and it is a rare blend of the finesse and elegance of fino and the power and richness of oloroso.

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Sherry production is complex and involves a system of fractional blending called a solera, which, in it’s most simple form is a series of casks used to age the wine. At the end of the series, mature wine is drawn off the last cask. Wine is moved through the series to replace the drawn wine, with new wine being added to the cask at the beginning of the series. The point of this in fino production is to keep the flor alive; as wine ages, it loses the nutrients that the flor needs to sustain itself. It is used in oloroso production as well. The solera offers vintage diversification; wine from a good vintage ameliorates the qualities of a lesser vintage. Due to the fact that not all of the wine in a particular cask is drawn off, the oldest of soleras contain wine that is hundreds of years old.

(diagram taken from http://www.wineaustralia.com)