This is the first in a series of posts offered in explanation of the pairings we put together for the Marx Foods ecookbook. The series is intended to give insight into how wine nerds like us think about pairing food and wine.
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Porcini Mushrooms ala Plancha with Aged Champagne. Hell yes. pg 4
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Aged Champagne is a pleasure all too rarely endulged. Most of us have had occasion to slurp down some young bubbles — and lord knows that can be entirely fulfilling, but well-made Champagne with a little age on it can turn into a magical beverage. The texture can be enthralling, and the wines take on delicious savory notes that play beautifully against the background of still-vibrant citrus and tree fruit.
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The most prominent savory note in aged champagne tends to be mushrooms, which is what led us directly to this pairing. Champagne offers excellent acidity, which is necessary to cut through the richness of the preparation (butter!). And then there’s that dose of sweet that does wonders for the fleur de sel sprinkled on top of the porcinis:
Most Champagne is topped up with a dosage of still wine and sugar before being corked. The amount of sugar in the dosage constitutes it’s stylistic designation. The majority of Champagne is made in the Brut style, which by law can contain no more than 15 grams per liter of sugar in the dosage. A good producer will keep the dosage below 10 g/l; he harvests ripe fruit, and so doesn’t need much additional sugar to cover up the sharp bitterness that unripe fruit will develop with time.
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I’d recommend a Vintage champagne with 10 or more years of age. The following vintages would rock with this pairing: 1999, 1996, 1995, 1990, 1989, 1988.
If you can find it, Vintage Champagne that has been recently disgorged (”RD”) would be extra fabulous. Wines with this designation have been aged on their lees for longer than typical. Vintage champagnes are required by law to be aged on their lees for at least three years (most are aged for longer), and recently disgorged wines are aged sur lie for even longer. The lees impart additional complexity to the wine and also offer it “food” to keep growing. Sur lie aging promotes long-life and great flavor development.
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Here’s a short list of Champagne producers that we dig: